FMS is considered to be one of the longest surviving restaurants in Ipoh. It opened its doors in the early 1900's and I believe it must be around 100 years old. Many years ago, I ate there quite frequently and I have always enjoyed their Hainan (Hoi Nam) style of cooking. The bar cum restaurant located downstairs remains popular with regular customers who congregate to talk about old times. The upstairs section of the shop was a hotel, but it was also converted into a restaurant some years back. The waiters are still impeccably dressed in stiffly starched white shirts and black pants. I really like the old-world charm and atmosphere that pervades in this facility, and I tend to feel that time came to a standstill in a place like that. Hainanese cooks are known for their unique ability to blend Chinese cooking with British colonial and local influence. In the old days, the kitchens in many government rest houses and private clubs like the Ipoh Club and Ipoh Swimming Club were operated by Hainanese cooks. My latest visit to Ipoh was too short, so I did not have the opportunity to swing by this legendary joint. In Ipoh, I am confronted with the dilemma of having to choose from too many good restaurants, and there is always too little time to try all of them. If you are back in Ipoh, I suggest you check out this old-time favorite.

I am glad you also share my opinion about the much-improved quality of Chinese food in America. This past summer, I was in LA for a short visit and I ate at Sam Woo Restaurant in St. Gabriel Square Mall. The Cantonese stir-fry entrees were excellent and to me, this restaurant is comparable to some of the finest restaurants in Hong Kong.

May the joy of feasting be with you always.